Bear Creek

Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, Montana

Wondering about the feasibility of a winter summit attempt on Sky Pilot Peak and a few other nearby high points, I set out today for a recon of the trail that would get me back to the mountain. Warm weather of the past few days combined with below freezing overnights made for lots of ice on trail in the lower reaches of the canyon.

One of the little mountain streams that normally flows into Bear Creek was completely frozen over all the way down the mountain. This is about 1 1/2 miles from the trailhead.

Knowing I would need to cross to the other side of Bear Creek I kept looking for an ice bridge. Never found one that I was comfortable enough to cross. Some more snow and a cold spell should fix that problem though. Probably will have to pack in a pair of fishing waders to make sure I can get a good safe creek crossing.

Some of the trees in one section of the valley are just covered in moss, while pretty neat to see in summer; it is a real splash of green with the stark winter landscape. It made a great place to eat a snack.

The normal crossing point about 3 miles up the valley was not something to try today. While the picture doesn't show the ice very well, the log was covered. So having only gone a bit over 3 miles from the trailhead I decided to turn and head up the south side of the valley to get a peak at the mountains further back in the valley.

And after a bit of scrambling this was the view I got. I'm sure now that I can get to the peaks I want to and they should be climbable this winter. I have been up them in summer conditions so I am familiar with the routes. Snow and ice should actually make the summits easier but camp will be colder and the pace will be slower.

Northern Bitterroot Scramble

Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, Montana

Took a trip to check trail conditions and snowpack in the northern Bitterroot mountains. What I found was lots and lots of ice! I saw more icicles today than I saw all last year. I think the few days of warm we had last week allowed melting and then this last cold snap just froze it solid. In some places the ice was over 6 inches thick.

The creeks are all weird ice sculptures along the banks, with more ice bridges than I expected. Crossed the creek on ice in 3 places today. Most of the creek ice was over a foot thick, some of it was closer to 2 feet thick. Took lots of pictures of the strange ice flows as well, just can't post all of them here.

As I got higher in altitude the snow pack got thicker. Up above treelike the mountains are already in full winter coats. With so much ice to cross today I didn't want to get out onto any real steep exposed areas yet. Once things get a bit more stable I have already decided where my first winter summit will be.

Spring Gulch

Rattlesnake Recreation Area, Montana

No clouds, little wind and day 10 of morning temps in the single digits…a great day for a mountain adventure! Started at the main trailhead for the Rattlesnake and after about a 1/2 mile turned west into Spring Gulch. All the cold weather has turned waterways into sheets of ice. I did find a few open spots in the ice on Spring Creek, but the ice was 2 to 3 inches thick already and it may not melt again till spring. Winter has arrived, at least Jack Frost has.

When hiking in the shade it was pretty cold, but was much better when the gulch widened out and got some sun. The little snow we had last week is sticking around and morphing into some strange ice crystal creations on the brush.

On the back side of the loop I got into a snow free area and really could enjoy the blue sky and warming temps. It was 11 degrees when I was finished my hike and made it back to the truck, almost a heatwave.

Stormy Joe - Point 9003 Summit

Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, Montana

Warm temps for the middle of October, so off in search of mountains to climb. Earlier in the year I had to turn back on Stormy Joe because the snowpack was too deep and springtime avalanche danger was significant. This felt like the day to revisit this climb. Early on the sun was out and the trees with changing leaves on them still were radiant.

About 9 miles from the trailhead I climbed the saddle and then headed up the final 2,000 feet to the summit. Snow from the last little storm was still on part of the slope and made me watch my footing. I found a ridge line that was mostly snow free and made good time on the accent. Halfway up the climb I took a break and while looking down at Bass lake decided to spend the night on the south shoreline in the edge of the trees.

Then I went back to getting to the top of this climb. At the summit my GPS showed 9,001 feet which was close to what the maps show as the summit elevation. Felt as if I was just below the clouds with the Bitterroot range stretched out before me. Can sure tell winter is on its way. Made it down to the lake just in time to set camp and have dinner as it was getting dark. The clouds cleared early during the night and this morning things had froze over a bit.

Woke this morning to clear skies, and a wonderful sunrise on the climb from yesterday. While the summit photos would be spectacular today, I decided to not climb back up. I just took my time heading back down the valley.

All year I have been seeing mushrooms with bites taken out of them. This was the first time I was what was eating them. Was able to sit and watch this squirrel devour the whole mushroom prior to running off in search of more food. Sometimes it is more fun to watch the little critters than it is to see the big ones.

Firebrand Pass

Glacier National Park, Montana

Cloudy and a bit cold to start the day but clear enough for a two summit bid day. Got to the seldom used Lubec trailhead and started heading for Firebrand Pass. The fall colors along the trail were all fighting for attention and made the miles fly by as everywhere I looked was so colorful.

Clouds were on the move and the wind started getting fierce but the pass still looked good. Calf Robe Mountain had disappeared into the clouds but Red Crow Mountain was still looking good for a climb.

Then the weather moved in for good. This bird was trying to hang in against the wind, but the mountain behind it had completely disappeared, and then the rain started, and some of it was ice pellets.

Made it to the pass just because it was someplace to hike to. Any summits were out of the window for today. Looked around a little, but there was not much to see. The trail down was easy to follow but the scenery had completely changed so it was like hiking a different trail out rather than the way we had come. No mega fauna today, or at least none we could see although it was probably close by.

With no reason to camp out in the rain just to drive home in the AM, Matt and I headed back to Missoula and called it a good week up in the high country. Besides we both really needed a shower after 6 days.

Avalanche Lake Basin

Glacier National Park, Montana

Plan 1 for the day, go to Logan Pass and climb at least one of the surrounding Peaks. Unfortunately a storm front moved in while we on our way to Logan Pass. By the time we got to the trailhead it was blowing a cold rain, and visibility dropped to less than 100 feet. Not climbing on wet rock so looked for an alternate plan. Avalanche Lake it was.

Normally this is one of the busiest trails in the park, but today Matt and I had it to ourselves. I never thought I would see this trail empty. I like it this way!

We explored all the way around the lake, something I have never been able to do because I have never come except when the water is at it's highest. Found this neat little caterpillar, looks like he should be at a Punk Rock concert. As cold as it is he might need to be getting on with becoming a butterfly.

As always the lower parts of the creek were pretty and very colorful. It amazes me how just a short distance away I can be above tree line but it is so lush in this valley.

Headed to the east side of the park after we got done with this hike. We planned to camp in Two Medicine for the night and meet up with another Vet that Matt knows from California. Didn't get our summit but still had a great day in Glacier.

Gunsight Pass to Lake McDonald

Glacier National Park, Montana

Up before the sun so I could try and get high up on Gunsight Mountain for the sunrise. Should have just gone the last of the way to the summit but wasn't planning on the attempt and didn't have the right stuff with me. But the view was pretty good anyhow. The lake below was nice to watch as it changed with the suns movement higher in the sky.

Of course the surrounding ridges showed wonderful color as well. Next year I will have to plan 3 days just to explore all the ridges surrounding this wonderful valley. Lots of summits to be climbed up, and not all of them are named.

Dropped about 2,000 feet back down to lake Ellen Wilson before the sun could get to all of the lake. It looked like an edge pool where it dropped again towards Lincoln Lake.

Climbing out of the valley for the final pass of the day the sky didn't have a cloud that I could see. It was a magnificent hike across the tree line shoulders of these peaks.

Eventually the wide open alpine trail and views turned back to mature forest lands. No sweeping vistas here, but nice shade and lots of green.

Once at the trailhead we went to the Apgar Campground and got a spot for the night, then out of the park for dinner at a wonderful cafe that has been there for over 30 years. I always eat at it if I get a chance. Besides a burger and pie tastes so good after 4 days in the backcountry.

Jackson Glacier and Gunsight Pass Goats

Glacier National Park, Montana

Headed back towards Gunsight Pass after a quiet night at Reynolds Creek. There is a spur trail from the outlet at Gunsight Lake that heads towards the meadow well below Jackson Glacier. Crossing back over the creek Matt and I headed up the steep trail towards the meadow, and then it was lots of off trail working closer and closer to Jackson Glacier. Eventually we got right to the base of the glacier and even stood on some of the big parts that had broken off from it.

The opportunity to get right up to the glacier doesn't happen very much, weather and dry rock are the key factors. It would be foolhardy to try the route we did if we could not have found our way across the meltwater on dry stone. Led to a lot of backtracking to get there but was it ever worth all the effort.

Of course Matt sat on the rocks and enjoyed a snack while I did some additional exploring for a good photo. Then he proceeded to take the best ones of the glacier.

On the way back down we had the experience of coming around the ridge and seeing mom bear and two cubs feeding away. She looked us over and kept an eye on us as we moved further down and away from them. She had a beautiful coat and the cubs were in good shape also. I didn't get a good picture of the cubs but here is one of mama bear next to a really big chunk of the mountain.

Eventually we wound up back at Gunsight Pass where there were lots of Mountain Goats. Spent over an hour with goats close by. Some came right up to where we were, like less than 2 feet from me. Those horns look pretty sharp that close up. This one had a magnificent coat. I also liked his attitude.

Lincoln Peak Summit and Critters

Glacier National Park, Montana

Woke up to rain falling at sunrise. Normally not a problem but I was sleeping under the stars with no tent. Slid under a tree and packed up quickly to keep my stuff dry. About the time I got everything put away it rained a little harder for a while then stopped as quickly as it started. a short time later the skies were back to blue with a few puffy clouds. From camp we went uphill and after reaching the saddle climbed Lincoln Peak. Not a hard peak but one with great views of lakes and 2 valleys.

On the way to Gunsight Pass we passed a wonderful lake and then started climbing back to about 7,000 feet in elevation. Along the climb we first saw a really big Grizzly. I can't get over his size and power as we watched him dig up the ground and eat. He was the first Griz of this trip, but would be far from the last one we would see.

A few 100 feet up the trail from where we were watching the bear I got to take some photos of this Marmot that seemed to be posing for me. While he was staying still in the open he was very watchful of our passing by. I think this is the best marmot picture I have ever taken.

Not all the views were of animals along this stretch, the surrounding landscape was exceptional, although with the big grizzly moving slowly towards the same pass we were, I really did keep a watchful eye on him the most.

Once over Gunsight Pass, the views changed some, there was a smaller griz feeding on the slope above us and the first Mountain Goat of the trip on the slope below. All the wildlife kept our eyes scanning all the terrain around us.

Of course the views stayed as wonderful as they had been. Gunsight Lake was a gem below us and along our route so we knew there was a long decent ahead of us to finish the day.

The last surprise was that the backcountry bridges had already been removed for winter. Made for some cold feet crossing the outlet of the lake, but the water wasn't to deep nor the rocks overly sharp. Matt made it look easy but my feet started to cramp from the cold water about the time I was finishing my crossing. No fish kills downstream so we must not have been to stinky yet.

Trail to Sperry Chalet

Glacier National Park, Montana

First day of fall so time for another trip to the Glacier backcountry. Matt from my Air Force past flew up to join me on this adventure, so off from Missoula to Glacier we went.  Got a great permit from the backcountry office, helped that there are so few folks out in the park right now. Fall colors and views started early as we climbed towards Sperry Chalet.

For one of the few times ever I got ahead of Matt on the trail and he was having to keep up with me. I liked this change as he is normally much faster than me on the trail.

Lots of weird mushrooms all along the trail. I liked looking at them all but this one was so big that I could have put a salad plate on top of it. Then 10 feet away was a group of really small mushrooms all fighting for the same inch of ground. Can't tell how different the sizes are from the pictures I took. I really need to learn more about these neat plants.

Just a little before sunset we passer the closed up and winterized Chalet complex that was built by the Great Northern Railroad to house early visitors to the park. Great old buildings that we walked around for a bit prior to getting the last 1/4 mile to out campsite. Would love to stay at the Chalet some day. I think Geri would like it. We ended the day looking at the stars and saw loots of shooting stars. A good start to the week.

Middle Kootenai Lake

Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, Montana

The last week of summer started today, although the morning temp was 37 when I started out, it warmed right up and was a beautiful cloud free day in the mountains, but colors are changing and fall is showing itself already.

Saw lots of wildlife throughout the day. Started with a group of wild turkeys right at the trailhead. Then it was deer, rabbits, squirrels and lots of different birds. One of the grouse exploded into flight right at my feet, got my heard rate up some.

Lots of mushrooms out, none that I could identify, many of them looked gooey.

Eventually I made it up to the lake, it was a bit further than I had figured. When i got back to the truck found that my exploration to the head of Kootenai Creek made for almost 22 miles today. Have to go back and camp up at the lake so I have time and energy to climb some of the unnamed high points around the valley. Besides the ridge is the state border with Idaho and I might find more of the border markers.