Friday, September 25, 2015

Cobalt Lake and the Two Medicine Pass

Glacier National Park, Montana

Rain is over and the sun is shining brightly. Best weather of the past week. Changed trailheads and headed up to Cobalt Lake to hang the packs so Matt, Alex and I can play on the top of Chief Lodgepole Peak and Painted Tepee. Early on Alex rounded a corner and this young bull moose was hanging around the trail. He looked us over real good then headed for a bit more cover and let us on our way.
Rockwell Falls is just a few yards from the trail so we explored around them a bit. While I climbed up the right side of the falls to take pictures with Matt, Alex went up the left side. There are lots of smaller falls up above the main falls so a bit of exploring this area is time well spent. The orange dot at the upper right of this picture is Alex having a snack.
Right at lunchtime we arrived at Cobalt Lake, and sat watching 3 more moose feeding at the waters edge. It is a small alpine lake so just out of range for good photos but close enough that we could hear the noises they were making. After half an hour we hung the packs on the bear pole in camp and continued up to Two Medicine Pass. Once on the pass it is a short climb via trail to the summit of Chief Lodgepole Peak. By far the easiest mountain summit in all of Glacier to get to.
From Chief Lodgepole it is out along a nice ridge for a mile to the scree below the summit of Painted Tepee. The scree is a bit of a pain to cross but still not too bad. Views are good along the route and only get better the closer to the summit block that you get.
You can see the balanced rock near the summit from the trailhead at Two Medicine Lake so seeing it up close is fun. Mountain Goats hang out in the protected area below it often, but not today. When we got to the last little bit to the top I stayed right below the summit while Matt and Alex went up. I promised myself that if it was windy I would not go back up on top. The last few feet are very precarious and the wind got my attention the last time I was up on top. It was windy today.
Turned into a wildlife viewing day as 11 Bighorn Sheep were in the area feeding along. Matt and I followed them up to the shoulder of Mount Rockwell. It was to late in the day to bag another summit so we headed back to Cobalt lake to join Alex who had shortcut his way back down. Along the way 3 more Mountain Goats were on the rocks above and another moose was pretty close to us in the small trees looking us over. I also saw a weasel hunting in the rocks. That was a rare sight.
After a relaxing evening it was time to enjoy the stars from our campsite. In the morning Mount Rockwell was aglow in wonderful reds of the sunrise. I sat and watched the colors cross the mountain and the ridges for 20 Min's. It was a great way to start the day.
 Eventually it was time to head back to the trailhead and the truck. But we had a surprise in store. On the way up the valley the seasonal bridge across the creek was still in place. 24 hours later the trail crew had removed it. While it was an easy bit of water to cross it let us know the season is rapidly coming to a close in Glacier.
 Just a mile from the truck we passed the beaver ponds, the reflections were nice.
I came up to a Grouse that I think has no chance at survival this winter. It walked along the trail next to me for 10 yards. Something is going to eat it soon.
Last view of the mountains as we were packing our things in the truck. Painted Tepee is the peak on the distant left. While I will be back in the area before to long, Matt and Alex will have to wait a bit longer. It was a good 8 days in the park.

Wednesday, September 23, 2015

Hidden Lake

Glacier National Park, Montana

Decided to hike with just day packs and go to the far end of Hidden Lake from the Logan Pass trailhead. The first mile and a half of uphill on the boardwalk had some folks, but nothing like the throngs during the height of the tourist season. Once over Hidden Pass and on the way down to the lake only a few folks were still on the trail. Views of the lake and the backside of Reynolds Mountain were spectacular. Such beauty is accessible to most but still relatively few make it down past the lookout platform on the top of the pass.
Always mountain goats in the area, only now most are wearing a transmitter as part of a multi year study tracking them. I think Alex was happy to see some wildlife that came right up to us. Something they don't have in Australia anyhow.
Of course Matt found some company as he departed the outhouse down near the lake. This goat just stayed with us for a bit. Had to be after the salt on our packs.
After crossing the outlet of the lake at the end of the official trail we followed what is a good climbers and fisherman's trail towards the far end of the lake. You can't see the far end of the lake from up on the pass as it wraps around the base of Bearhat Mountain. Looking back towards the way we had come made for some good scenery. This view of Clements Mountain and Hidden Pass is one of my favorites.
I would venture a guess that Alex was enjoying the sunshine and clear water after all the rain of the last few days. It really was nice to hike without the big packs.
As we neared the far end of the lake a unique view of Reynolds Mountain presents itself. Sure can see just how the glaciers of bygone eras have shaped it. Takes a bit of work but it is a fun climb.
After we hiked back out we had dinner at Luna's in East Glacier then spent the night at Two Medicine so we could get an early start into the backcountry again tomorrow.

Tuesday, September 22, 2015

Kintla Lake

Glacier National Park, Montana

Day off to rest up, do some fishing and dry out gear that got wet in the all night rain up at Fifty Mountain. Also a chance to use my Go Pro for the first time with a time lapse of the sunset. After setting out gear to dry in the sun it was time to go fishing. Alex liked the float tube. In Australia he would likely get bit by a croc or a shark if he dangled his legs in the water like this, but here in a mountain lake it is quite relaxing. Unfortunately, for the first time ever at Kintla no fish were caught. No fish smell to attract bears so not a bad thing either.
While Matt and Alex fished I found lots of little trout…but they were all just out of eggs this season. Something to catch in years to come.
I also got a lot of exercise following this merganser up and down the shore trying to get a photo. I did get to see it catch some little fish to eat but getting a photo of it will take some more practice on my part.
As the sun started going down we took camp chairs from the truck and hung out down at the waters edge. The last 2 hours of light were beautiful.

Eventually we enjoyed a campfire and turned in late for us. Must have been after 10pm. We were up for the sunrise though, which was as good as the sunset.
Once we got camp all put away and headed to Polebridge for some Huckleberry Bear Claws the sun was all the way up and you had to look hard to find a cloud. Scenery stayed great with the blue sky making the golds and reds stand out..

Saturday, September 19, 2015

Highline Loop via 50 Mountain Meadow

Glacier National Park, Montana

Still hoping the weatherman was right we left the trailhead at the loop on Going to the Sun Road and headed down towards Packers Roost. The first creek fed waterfall was flowing again from all the rain. It had less water in it a month ago when I passed this way.
The trail up towards Flattop Mountain is through a burned over area from 12 years ago. The trees create a weird backdrop and when the wind picked up made for some strange sounds. While it didn't rain on us the clouds stayed low and hid all the views of the surrounding mountains. Colors sure stood out as some plants are changing into their fall variations.
We were not getting to where we were supposed to be for the night with the weather closing in along with darkness. While not what the park service wants us to do, safety dictated we find a mostly level spot and set up for the night. The trees did give some shelter from the weather but the rain still made it down to us.
In the morning we continued down towards where we should have been prior to going to Fifty Mountain for the night. Clouds continued to lighten up then thicken again. We went several hours with no rain. Made for dramatic views.
We went a bit off the trail to check out one of the bigger creeks in the valley. Red rock and clear water was a nice combination. Matt and Alex climbed out onto logs over the water. The logs show just how high the water is during the spring melt and runoff.
 Heading into Fifty Mountain for the night the clouds lifted and some sun broke through. I hoped it was an omen of good things to come that night. I was wrong. But the respite made for a great picture of them heading into the camp area. Still could not see the mountains that cause it to be called 50 mountain.
We got camp set up and had dinner. Then it started to rain so our timing was good. Others were rolling into the camp area in the rain and were not as happy with setting up while their gear got wetter. Just after I took this photo it started to rain and soon it was raining hard with a strong wind. I actually was impressed with my tent as I stayed dry. My pack doesn't fit in with me and it is not a waterproof as the maker said.
 The trail caused us to cross this water feature. The rain had it going full blast. I like how it just appears out of the side of the mountain. Must be one heck of a crack or tunnel to force all the water out right there. Someday I will have to explore it when it is flowing at a lot lower volume.
Started seeing some wildlife now that the sun was out. This female bighorn had a little one nearby but was not concerned by us at all. She knew we were not any kind of a threat to her and her little one. Saw a few more but at least they were on their feet when we were around.
Sections of the high line are a bit narrow, some who have a fear of heights don't do well on this trail. I think it is a blast.
The clouds were really starting to break up as the last few miles back to the trailhead and the plants really shone in the sunlight. We headed into Apgar campground for the night and had dinner at a small diner near the turn into the park at West Glacier. We used the dry tent that was in my truck. Worked out well.

Friday, September 18, 2015

Snyder Lake

Glacier National Park, Montana

Cloudy skies as Alex, Matt and I headed for Glacier for a week of backcountry. Weatherman said "a few stray showers in far northwest Montana, but otherwise dry". They were wrong, not even close to what was about to happen. We got our permits in the backcountry office and stepped out to the truck in a rain shower. It rained enough on the way to the lake that I kept my camera put away to stay dry. This was one shot I took. The forest is still very pretty but not photogenic.
Made it to the campsite at the lake and the rain let up. Long enough to set up the tents and make dinner. But shortly after we had everything ready for the night it started to rain again so we retreated to the tents and visited through the fabric.
In the morning it was no better. The clouds still obscured the peaks. Edwards Mountain is somewhere behind this ridge. This was the best view I had of it. The colors were amazing even with the rain.
The hike back to the truck for a trailhead change went by quickly, but the camera stayed put away. Good news is that my rain gear worked and my tent kept me dry.

Thursday, September 10, 2015

Kootenai Creek to Lapi Lake's Back Door

Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, Bitterroot National Forest, Montana

Early morning start on a beautiful Montana mountain day. Not a cloud in the sky and not another vehicle at the trailhead. Few days start as good as this. Hiking along the creek I quickly noticed that Kootenai Creek is down from the torrent it was in the spring but the water is still crystal clear, cold and refreshing.
Working my way westward up the valley after about 5 miles I had a great view of Bass Peak. Then I realized that Lapi lake must be pretty close, maybe just over the north ridge. So a right turn and up towards the ridge line I went.
It was steep, followed an elk trail for some of the way but mostly it was just catch a breath and keep going up.
Once on the spur that ran from the main ridge the going got a bit easier. Still steep, but with lots of color to be found in the low brush growing close to 7,000 feet.
Eventually I made it to the top and could see the best way to drop into Lapi Lake from the ridge. Was using my hands to help me move along so no pictures got taken while up high. Coming back down was more of an adventure. Took longer than going up and I had a good tumble so for about 3 seconds it was pretty exciting. Only a few scratches and a small hole in my shorts so no harm done. Eventualy I got back to Kootenai Creek and followed the trail back to my truck. Such a pretty place so close to the house.

Friday, August 14, 2015

Floral Park Traverse

Glacier National Park, Montana

Early start to get vehicles ready for the end of the day shuttle. Made it to the Logan Pass parking lot as the predawn light was getting good. Just a few others at the pass this early and almost all were heading on climbs or cross country routes. One tourist drove up and got out in flip flops then asked if it was so warm out because of the fires. Closest fire was many miles away. Can't make this stuff up! The local Bighorn population was out and getting ready for the swarm of visitors. The biggest one came right up to us. From 6 inches away those are pretty big looking horns. The park service calls these "wild" animals, this one has lost a bit of his wildness I think.
After he tired of visiting with us, Bryan and I headed up the Hidden Lake Overlook trail so we could catch the sunrise from a small pond on the pass. It was fun watching the sunrise glow through the smoke from nearby fires but we had miles to go so soon we were off to Hidden Lake.
On the way down the trail to the lake I had another close critter encounter. This young marmot wanted to see what my camera was. I had to back up to get it in focus. As long as a bear isn't wanting an up close photo I was OK with it. Going to be a unique day.
Once at the outlet the official trail section of this route was over. Enough people go around the lake that there is an unofficial use trail that goes most of the way along the south side of the lake. It fades out in a few places but overall is easy to follow. Because we had dropped so suddenly from the pass into the hidden lake valley we got to experience sunrise a second time for the day. Was just as pretty the second time around. This small island in the lake caught the sun quite well.
Eventually you have to climb out of the valley and up through the cliff bands. You can easily see where you need to go, so we picked a line and did a climbing traverse that got us through the steepest part. Views back to Hidden Lake are pretty good when we would stop and catch our breath.
Near the top of the ridge high above Hidden Lake another much bigger marmot was hanging out looking back down the way we had just come up. Probably wondering what we were up to.
This was his view, I took it after getting up to his rock perch. Then it was back to finish this part of the up.
Once on top of the ridge you can look down into Avalanche Lake. That is a long way down. Bryan is just about to get that great view.
You also get this view, while a wonderful sight, it also shows just how far we have left to go. Our route  will take us to the pass on the far side of the glacier to catch an established trail that goes down to McDonald Lake. Lots of ups and downs left for today.
From here the route drops into Floral Park and a small lake in the bowl. It looked pretty steep as we were coming down a chute in the face of the slope. When I looked back on the route later it looked worse. At the bottom of the chute was Floral Park. A bit late in the season this year for the massive blooms but still quite a few to see.
This white Indian Paintbrush was really a different color than all the others around it. It was more of a green bloom. I thought it was prettier than it's neighbors.
After a longish break looking at the flowers it was back to going uphill again and finding a safe scramble route towards Sperry Glacier. As we worked our way up the clouds really began building. Looked like a bit of rain was in our near future. With so many crevasses visible on the glacier we wanted to cross higher up to avoid them. With last winters snows melted off we could at least see them.
Once at the ice it was time to get the crampons out of the pack to ease the travel across the ice. Something weird about wearing shorts and wearing crampons. It worked for this route but not something I normally do.
With the sun behind the clouds the ice took on unusual shades. Of course the most dangerous places in the ice are also the most visually appealing. Took a bit to get around this spot.
I crawled down into this slot a ways. Even with the glaciers melting away, there is a lot of ice left there. We went over a mile across the face of this glacier.
After a short bit of rain the skies started clearing again. Looked like a break in the clouds but more were coming our way from the southwest.
Just after crossing the ice I had a great view back the way we had come. The route was the right hand chute in the vegetation across the valley. From this angle it doesn't look doable. I don't know if I would want to go up the way we came down.
The natural cleft in the cliff we had to go down had been modified with steps back in the 30's. The cable was added a short time
later. It really is as steep as it looks. Once we came onto those steps we were back onto established trail and the going was much easier.
To put the steps in perspective…the dark line in the cliff to the right of center just at the top is where the steps are located.
Another break for food and water now that we were in sun again…and the animal encounters continued. This time some mountain goats wanted to say hello, although not as close as the bighorns had done. This was just one of the 3 that came up to us.
This little guy had one ear that was always up and the other was limp. Made him look a little crazy but he hung around us most likely hoping we would drop some bits of food that he could scoop up.
With only 9 miles to go, and all of them downhill we set off again. Clouds started to look ominous but we were headed back towards the trees so I felt safer about lightning.
Shortly after this picture the clouds rolled in and settled down to a soaking rain. The camera went into my pack and stayed there. Didn't want to risk ruining it. Typical of a Montana mountain summer day, sun, clouds, rain, more sun, and more rain. At least it didn't snow!