Four Named Glacier Park Summits In One Day

Glacier National Park, Montana

Woke up with the sun and looked up. Saw breaks in the clouds so stuffed my sleeping bag away and headed for the Scenic Point trailhead in the Two Medicine Valley. I could see a storm coming from the northwest but wanted to see where the day would go. As I started hiking from the trailhead my truck was the only vehicle in the lot. Quite a change from yesterday afternoon when I couldn't find a place to park anywhere. 

Somewhere near the 2 mile mark this skeleton of a tree guards the trail. Besides just looking kinda cool, I remember this same dead tree from 20 years ago. It sure takes a long time for things to disappear in this alpine zone. The wind was blowing steady and with some force so I never got warm on my way up this ridge. In fact right after I took this photo I put on another layer to help me stay warm.

Nearing the ridge that would take me to Scenic Point I passed this unnamed high point. The sun was breaking out so it made a wonderful picture. On my way back down to the trailhead and my truck at the end of the day I passed it again and had to climb it. I think it wanted to be climbed.

Eventually the top of Scenic Point came and with it great views of the Two Medicine Valley. Didn't stay long before I headed down to start my loop of summits. The clouds, wind and rain played with me all day. No lightning so it was safe being above the tree line. I could see heavy rain over one valley where the fire is. Good place for the rain to be.

 The next summit was Medicine. After a mile long climbing traverse it was straight up for a 1,000 foot climb through the remains of a long gone glacier. Really windy (a theme for the day) but the rain showers changes to blue sky with a few fast moving clouds.

On the way up I passed by 2 young Bighorn sheep feeding and hanging out on the mountain. Not skittish at all, rather they just wanted to know what I was up to.

Made the summit cairn and with two peaks down decided not to follow this ridge to Mount Henry and Appistoki, wet rock and strong winds did not make it seem safe. So off along the other ridge towards Buffalo Mountain and then on to the Head. The rain caught up with me on the route to Buffalo so the camera got put away.

Heading back to the trail down the rain had stopped there was a horse at 7,500 feet. It let me get right up to it.  Something big had scared it to get it up here by itself, and it was favoring one of it's back legs. Spoke to a ranger about it and was told the owner had been contacted and was coming soon to get it. Hope it makes it.

One other common sight along the ridges today was lots of the rippled red rock. I was told by a geologist once that these are old sea marks from a long bygone era that have been pushed back to the surface. Pretty cool to look at anyhow. Does that mean I was mountain climbing at the beach?

Chief Lodgepole, Painted Tepee and Grizzly Mountain Summits

Glacier National Park, Montana

On the way to the South Shore trailhead in the Two Medicine valley I stopped to get a quick look at Trick Falls (now known as Running Eagle Falls). Not much water flowing this late in the season so only the lower falls is showing. Still a pretty sight, made nicer by no one else being there. The trail is only 3 tenths of a mile long so it wasn't a long detour on my way to the peaks.

Arriving at the South Shore trailhead I had the lot to myself, and only one other car was already parked in it. Something that would change significantly by the time I returned to the truck tomorrow. The 9ish mile approach to Two Medicine Pass was a steady climb, but with clear blue skies and scenery like this it was a pleasant hike. Besides only having gear for one night in the backcountry and not having to carry more than 1 liter of water my pack was really light.

Along the way there were some flowers changing to seed heads, and others just looking pretty by the creek. The small open areas were covered in blooming flowers. I just don't have the photo skills to capture the beauty of it all.

Eventually I made it past Cobalt Lake with a few snowbanks still in place along the steeper shore of the lake. Working my way up and over Chief Lodgepole Peak I got a good look at the mile long ridge that would get me to the summit area of Painted Tepee Peak.  Really an easy way till the final summit block, then it got a bit dicey.

This was one of the neat views through the crumbly section near the summit. That is Mount Rockwell visible in the distance. The one mountain in the area I didn't climb on this trip. But it will be a future adventure.

 After getting to the summit I worked my way back down where I found the Mountain Goats hangout…or bathroom. It had to take a long time to get this much in one place.

Working back to the main ridge it was time to tackle the main mountain of this trip, Grizzly Mountain. Mostly it was a steady climb up talus and scree till the final 600 feet. Then it made me do some route finding. My first shot at the highest point turned out to be almost the top. So after a climb back down a few hundred feet I traversed over to the real summit block and up to the top I went.

On top there was a flat area with great views and a wonderful place to sit and enjoy a snack. Then it was time to work my way back down.

Most of the down climb was harder than going up because the talus was really unsteady. After getting back to Two Medicine Pass I found a young marmot keeping an eye on things. It was the smallest marmot I have seen in years.

Day 2
After a wonderful night spent in some nestled in a bunch of white bark pine I was up and working my way back down the valley. Once near the head of the lake I started running into lots of people coming up the trail to Rockwell Falls. The falls were my private domain for breakfast as I was there very early. They really are pretty.

 As the number of hikers increased my speed going down went up as well. When I made it back to my truck at about 2 pm the lot at the trailhead was jammed, and cars were circling like buzzards waiting for a spot to park in. I tossed my pack in the back and headed for Marias Pass. I had never hiked along one section of the border trail, and for 11 miles I was in the wilds all alone. I saw this flower that reminded me of Shreck ears.

And this young grouse hid in a tree and thought if it didn't move I wouldn't see it. If it tries that with something that wants to eat it, it will get eaten.

 Passed a small beaver pond and this frog was hanging out along the edge.

The last bit of wildlife I saw was this insect. I have no idea what it is but it had its hind end stuck into the ground like it was laying eggs. I'm sending this picture off to a friend who can ID it for me.

The day ended with me spending the night at the Forest service campground right at the pass, just across the highway from Glacier.

Elk Mountain Summit and Coal Creek

Glacier National Park, Montana

After an early drive to Glacier and a crowded backcountry office visit I realized that the Reynolds Creek fire was going to have an impact on my plans for the next few days. I secured a permit for the backcountry for the next night then headed straight to the hardest trailhead to find around the park and went for a climb up to the summit of Elk Mountain. There used to be a fire lookout up on top so there is still a trail going all the way up. A NPS sign at the point where the climbing starts says horse travel not recommended. It is steep most of the way up, but then a bit of a flat section on the shoulder of the mountain allows you catch your breath and enjoy viewing the route up to the top.

Looking into the heart of the park from the summit shows just how rugged it is. This is the part of Glacier that most tourists never see. In the distance you can see a little smoke creeping into view.

Views were so good from up on top that even the little furry critter had to take a look. Sure seemed like he was enjoying the view. In reality it was most likely looking for something to eat or watching out for something higher on the food chain. Either way it kept me company for awhile.

After taking the trail back down I followed Coal Creek several miles to a backcountry campsite then back to the trailhead (In other words I hiked todays trails both directions). Along the way the Lodgepole Pine were just thick. If this valley catches on fire it will really have the fuel to move quickly.

Eventually I did came to the bigger Ole Creek and found some beautiful flowers. I think they are Alpine Fireweed, but might be Dwarf Fireweed. Both look similar and are smaller than the Fireweed I am familiar with.

Just across the road from Glacier is the Lewis and Clark National Forest and the Bob Marshall Wilderness. So I went till I found a good stream for water and called it a night. This was the view I had laying in my sleeping bag as the sun was setting.

Swan Divide Trail and Morrell Creek

Lolo National Forest, Montana

Cool temps, almost clear skies and I was off to scout for a way up both Matt and Sunday Mountains with a connecting ridge walk. Along the way I passed a small shallow unnamed lake not far from Morrell Falls. The wind was calm at the surface but the few clouds overhead were really moving. Just a few yards from where I took this picture I left the maintained trail.

After about 1/2 mile I came to Morrell Creek, while only a foot deep the water is really clear and refreshing. Also cold enough that it made my teeth tingle when I drank some.

I found the largest section of huckleberries I have even seen. The area they covered would have to be measured in acres, and they were all ripe. Hence the problem with off trail backcountry travel this time of year, I keep getting sidetracked by the bounty of the land. Ended up picking most of a gallon bag full of berries. Some jam and ice cream are in my near future! That the patch is 3 miles from the nearest road and no maintained trails go all the way to them means I have another honey hole to go to each year. That makes 4 great diverse areas of huckleberries for me to pick from now.

I kept hearing falling water down in the valley, and being curious I went down a pretty steep slope to check it out. There were 2 creeks coming together, one had to be Morrell Creek but the other isn't named on any of the maps I have of the area.

Not much sun gets to the bottom so lots of moss and more ferns than I would expect this high up in the mountains..

Found some more Pink Monkeyflower. Lately I am finding them a lot.

By the time I was on my way back to the truck there was no blue left in the sky, just clouds. Along the way I kept trying to get a photo of this Prince's Pine flower. I like this little evergreen herb, it is on my short list of cool plants because it is one of the original components in root beer. Ended up with a picture that I thought was interesting.

On the drive home I saw a herd of elk feeding in a field that had to be 70 or 80 animals. Wish they would be that easy to find when hunting season comes around.

Castle Crag Summit and Sheafman Canyon

Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, Montana

My third try to get to the Sheafman trailhead…and this time I made it. This is the worst road to a trailhead in the Bitterroots. Probably why I had the valley all to myself. Once on the trail I stumbled onto a patch of huckleberries. I did what any Montanan would do, stopped, picked a few handfuls and ate them. Then I picked enough to make a fresh quart of ice cream for tomorrow. Good thing I had an extra zip lock bag in the pack. This grouse was hanging out by the berries and she sure kept an eye on me.

There are 4 small high country lakes near the head of the valley. I saw fish in 3 of them as well as a small stream that cut across a meadow. Going to have to go back with my fly rod in the next few weeks to chase wild trout.

I came across a flower I have been looking for. There were several hundred Elephants Head in a marshy meadow. Wound up with wet feet to get to see them.

Eventually Castle Crag showed itself so I could see the planned climb for the day. The east face is a 500+ foot sheer face with a great crack all the way down the face. I planned on going around and up to the ridge line for my route to the summit block. I know someone who has climbed the crack to the summit, not something I will ever do.

After a significant effort I made the ridge, then it was time to get to the fin and find a way around it. Eventually I downclimbed to the left to get around it. The exposure on the right side was a bit much for me. It looks a lot easier in the picture than it was on the mountain.

This is one of the views from near the top. Smoke drifting into Montana from fires in Alberta Canada shortened the views some. There was so much exposure on the route that if you have a fear of heights or are risk adverse this was not a climb for you.

This is a better view looking north-east. The two highest lakes can be seen. It was a steep slope between the two and was part of the route up to to the ridge for the summit bid.

On the way back out I came across this old horse shoe embedded in a tree about mid canyon. It had to have been there for a long time. I'm sure there is a great story behind it…I can only wonder what it was.