Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail, California Miles 0 - 702 in 26 days
Day 1 - 18 April
At 6 am as the sun was coming up…and I was headed north. Only two others starting from the border at the same time, although 50 permits were issued for today. Happily I stayed ahead of the mini herd.
The trail most taken showed the way, all you had to do was follow the footprints…funny how I could pick out the most prevalent. Lots Brooks Cascadia's have been this way and left their mark, mine just added to those already on the trail.
By the time I made camp in the evening at mile 32, I had passed 40+ other hikers. Once I got by the 2 who started with me I never saw another person who had started on the 18th in the time I was on the trail. Camped under some oak trees and after I chose my spot others chose to camp nearby, all of them used tents while I just spread my sleeping bag out and went to sleep.
Day 2 - 19 April
Easy trail headed up towards towards Mt Laguna and the wonderful little store with lots of goodies to eat. So I had a 2nd breakfast while sitting on the front porch with other hikers when I got there. A few were already quitting and looking for a ride to the airport. This sign along the road in town is pretty funny. Only in California would you have to post a law about throwing snowballs.
Crossing the road leaving town I ran into the first of many rattlesnakes. This one was pretty good sized but not a threat to me, he just wanted warmth.
Ended up with a great camp spot in a meadow near the Sunrise Trailhead about 1/4 mile from the trail. Nothing for miles that would be near as good, besides there was water here. Bit of an early stop but the camp area was worth it. Others were around, the trail is a bit crowded early on.
Day 3 - 20 April
Out of the brief encounter with the forest around Laguna and into real dessert. Took a short break at the Rodriguez Fire Tank to drink my fill and load up with water. No water for the next 32 miles other than what I can carry. The plants all have sharp things to attack the legs if not paying attention to where you walk. Pretty in its own way. I did see a wild turkey in a wash near mile 77, surprised me but I heard from others they saw it as well on different days. Had to be water nearby somewhere. Found a flat area near the trail right at sunset that was out of the wind so made camp.
Day 4 - 21 April
Clouds were coming over some distant mountains, must be an onshore flow the way they were hugging the crests. Looked like waves crashing over the ridges, made it hard to keep my eyes on the trail to watch were I was stepping.
but I had a good hike past the 100 mile mark…
and Eagle Rock. Some folks were taking a break at Eagle Rock so I was able to get a picture with me in it.
From Eagle Rock it is a short hike in to Warner Springs and I stopped for the night. It was only 3pm but lots of folks were stopped and camped there. Kind of a mini PCT Kick Off going on. I had fun listening to all the other hikers talk about their gear and trail experiences so far.
Day 5 - 22 April
Started late, it was just after 9am before I hit the trail. The Warner Springs Community Center was doing breakfast and ALL the hikers wanted one. It was good to have pancakes and eggs. Passed the first real creek of the trip. It is also a water source that I couldn't pass up.
Lots of up for the afternoon. Trail Angel Mike had water at his place just off the trail and he lets hikers camp on his ranch. A storm with strong wind and lots of mist hit while I was there, so a sheltered spot out of the wind was my traveling home for the night.
Day 6 - 23 April
Beautiful morning, almost cool so I was moving with the sun. My pace was great all the way to the Tule Spring trail. I left my pack at the side trail and carried my bottles down to fill with ice cold water. The trail was continuing to be kind to me but I passed a young couple who were doctoring some horrible blisters beside the trail. I have never seen blisters this bad. How they were still walking at all was beyond me.
The Paradise Cafe is only a mile from where the trail crosses HWY 74, and with the best burgers on the trail I had to go and get one.
Besides feeding my hunger I needed to figure out the trail around the Mountain Fire Closure. I ended up hiking as far as I could on the trail and when I hit the road someone stopped and gave me a ride the rest of the way into Idyllwild and the state park campground. I'm glad they did because there was no shoulder to speak of on the road and the cars were pretty fast. About 25 PCTers were at the campground, by the time my tent was set up it started raining lightly.
Day 7 - 24 April
Rain, I need to climb to 10,000 feet today and now it is raining as I pack up. Other hikers are up but most are going to stay in town for another day because this is the leading edge of a larger storm system. I walk the 3 miles up to the Devils Slide trailhead and start going up.
I'm in the clouds and the view is really neat. The clouds are blowing around me and the trees. It is the unique sights like this that make backcountry travel worth it for me.
Then I got lucky and climbed through the top of the rain clouds and found wonderful blue sky. Spread out my tent to dry and aired out my sleeping bag prior to putting any more miles in. All those who stayed in town were getting wet and I was having a ball.
Eventually as I was coming down Fuller Ridge the storm came over the mountain, but not rain, just strong wind. I thought I had a sheltered spot by a boulder to camp. Not nearly as sheltered as I had hoped as the wind pummeled me all night long. Not the best sleep I had on the trail.
Day 8 - 25 April
Clouds chased me the rest of the way to my first resupply at Ziggy and the Bears. The gate to their backyard is a welcome sight for almost every PCT hiker. Right next to the trail in Whitewater (no water around by the way) and they like to have hikers stop by. Their great back patio is where I was when a pouring rain started. Thought I would sit it out before moving on. It lasted over 10 hours and was the heaviest rain the Bear said he had seen while he lived there. Starting to have a hard time believing California is in a drought about now. I spent the night on the covered patio with about a dozen others.
Day 9 - 26 April
A few wispy clouds are all I see in the morning as I pack up and head out. That and the windmills I will be hiking through for the morning.
By 10am I am up and over the first set of steep ridges and find myself at the Whitewater River. I expected to find cloudy water but it was clear and tasted great. I wouldn't refill water again till sunset and that was from a small spring. I washed up as best I could near here and enjoyed the warmth after the wet night.
This "century"plant had the best bloom going from any I had seen. I had passed lots of them but none this grand.
Located the small spring at Mission Creek and set up camp just as the sun was setting. Boy was I happy to find that water source because I was about out. It was a hot afternoon and I went through 4 liters of water, more than I had expected to.
Day 10 - 27 April
A steady climb brought me up from desert where some hiker in front of me created some art to look at as I passed by and then then the trail looped me around Big Bear.
Pine trees and altitude kept temps nice. I hiked much of the day with Rooster. He and I were both amazed at the size of this Ponderosa pine. Took me 5 outstretch arm lengths to get around the tree.
As I was coming up on Big Bear I came across the famous "couch" by the side of the trail. This location has become quite well known in the PCT hiker word of mouth and writings over the past few years. Nice to see it for myself. Yes I sat in it.
Ended up camping in a wonderful spot with views back across the desert floor way below. The setting sun made all my pictures of the view look like a bright blob so you will have to take my word for how awesome it was.
Day 11 - 28 April
In and out of trees at 8,000 feet then the long slow decent towards Deep Creek. Most of the surrounding areas were burned in a big fire a few years ago. Left the hiking pretty exposed to the elements.
Patches of Ponderosa Pines could be found along the way. They were the perfect place to take breaks from the sun.
Lizards have taken over this part of California. I have never seen so many, or such diversity. Although they can sure be skittish when you try and get close enough to take their pictures. I spent too much of my day stopping and watching them. While not the wildlife I am used to in Montana, at least the high desert has some life returning after the fires.
I camped at a wonderful flat area 20 feet above Deep Creek called Bench Camp all by myself. First mosquito of the trip bit me and then was crushed by my hand, and as I was laying in my sleeping bag I could look up and I saw bats out eating them. I rooted for the bats.
Day 12 - 29 Apr
Hiking and camping near Jeffrey Pines makes one pay attention. The cones weigh about 5 pounds (heaviest in the pine tree world) and are bigger than my size 13 shoe with sharp ends on them. Would love to have brought one home to show the grand kids but there was no way I was adding that much weight to my pack. A picture will have to do.
The morning was spent hiking along the Deep Creek valley. The further down I went the more signs of people I saw. Once I got to the hot spring area my solitude had turned to a bit of a crowd. I didn't stop at the hot springs but just about everyone was congregated there.
As the afternoon went on I passed the 300 mile mark, and the stone mark someone had put together. The miles just kept on with not much change.
Eventually I came to the "ford" of Deep Creek as it was disappearing in the sand. Just enough to get the shoes wet. I took this after I had crossed it. A mile further on and the creek disappears completely.
As evening wore on I realized I would not make it to the lake I had hoped to but ended up much closer that I thought as I camped in a dry wash. In the morning I realized I was less than a mile from the lake. The sand made for a better nights sleep though.
Day 13 - 30 April
Today was hot, exposed to the sun on steep ridges and did I mention hot. Early on I passed Silver Lake and it was pretty, but it was nothing but a water stop. I saw this wonderful flower there and thought it was a poppy but now I am not sure. Whatever it is it stood out. Saw a few from time to time but never more than 1 at any place.
It was never planned to be a long day because I knew there was a McDonald's near the trail. I was burning more calories than I could take in so fast food sounded doubly good. I found myself dreaming about french fries all morning on the way to there. This trail sign is the best advertising they could have because every hungry hiker stops and gets something to eat. Stinky hikers mixing in with clean travelers who came by car getting a bite to eat. They must have thought we hikers were a homeless convention.
After eating 2 Big Macs and 2 large fries I decided to call it a day and stay at the Best Western at Cajon Pass. First shower in 2 weeks felt good, so did the bed…and the second shower too.
Day 14 - 1 May
Even though I slept indoors I was still up early and on my way by 6 am. Quick stop for continental breakfast in the lobby where I ate lots of bacon and eggs, then it was back to trail life. I had to cross over I-15 and looking at the traffic I was happy to be getting back into the wild.
Back on the trail it was a 22 mile steady uphill climb. Took me from scrub brush back to some trees. As I approached the top of the climb I pulled something in my left ankle that really was unpleasant. Should have been looking where I was going rather than at the birds flying over.
The top of the climb was at a ski hill. Not what I was expecting, but it let me know that I was now going to go downhill for a while. Would have been easier with snow.
As the last light was fading I came across the Grassy Hollow Picnic Area. There was nobody around so I picked a quiet spot and camped for the night. One of the best trail signs so far was there.
Day 15 - 2 May
A short distance from Grassy Hollow was the start of the climb up Mount Baden Powell. I had to go most of the way up it on the trail so it was just a short side trip to push on to the summit. The old Boy Scout Leader in me couldn't let me pass the climb to the summit since it is named for the founder of Scouting. I wonder how many scouts have made this climb, they earned the summit as it wasn't easy.
On the way north and down the connecting ridge was another spring. Looks a bit rough but it was some of the best tasting water on the trail.
The Mountain Yellow-Legged Frog became a pain in my backside as I had a 3 mile road-walk around closed trail to protect habitat. I think the trail through the area will be closed for quite some time as the Forest Service has but a rather permanent sign up.
Back on the trail I saw 3 of these red plants. Not sure what they are but it has to be something related to a mushroom as there was no green to support itself. It was about 10 inches tall.
Eventually I found a flat spot on a ridge at mile 499.5. I had thought I would make it to mile 500 today but that wasn't happening. Good camp spots were far between at this point.
Day 16 - 3 May
Right away in the morning I passed the 400 mile mark.
Just up the trail a bit someone had put a 400.5 mile mark. There has to be a story behind it that I would love to know. It was lots fancier than the 400 mile mark.
Came across a meadow where there were lots of these yellow flowers. Really spread out but the impact of so much bright yellow could only make one smile. I know it made me smile.
Then the bane of hiking this section came. It is called Poodle Dog Bush…and is a native southern California species of evil. It grows rampant in recent fire scarred areas and has a nasty side to it. For most it is worse than poison ivy or poison oak. Lots of welts and oozing sores where it touches the skin. I spent over 15 miles being very careful to avoid it as it was right up to the trail and several times growing in the trail itself. It also has a strong distinctive smell. Poodle Dog Bush is not my friend.
Lots of these black lizards today but they were bigger than any others I had seen. They reminded me of Toothless in the animated movie "How to Train Your Dragon".
Eventually I made it to the Messenger Flat primitive campground. It has been closed for at least 2 years now but is still in use by PCT hikers as the only flat camp area around. It was after dark when I rolled in. Could see a few tents from others but no noise. When a campground is quiet at 8:20 at night you know it has to be tired hikers.
Day 17 - 4 May
My shortest mileage day. Along the way my tweaked my left ankle was not happy and this morning it really hurt. I was only 15 miles from my second resupply and some rest at the Acton KOA. Had a good laugh as I left the campground though with the bear country sign. Bears are not my concern here.
Along the way I passed an old Forrest Station. The caretaker their puts much appreciated water out for hikers. He came out to visit when I stopped by. Told me he has lived there for 18 tears as caretaker and as the sign maker for the national forest. He has had lots of work making signs to replace all the wood ones burned in the fires over the last few years. I think he has a pretty good life and he seemed really happy. Said he goes into town about once a month and it takes 2 hours one way. Bet he has a perfect shopping list that he follows when he does go.
Eventually I made it to the Acton KOA in time for a late lunch. They had junk food in their little store and it was good. Pringles and Mountain Dew, not a healthy lunch but calories count and I was getting them as fast as I could. Picked a piece of grass as my own, took a much needed shower and got off my feet. The afternoon and evening were spent reading and dozing.
While they had a great sign, I am still wondering where the river, snow capped mountains and the coyote were at. Not accurate depictions of the area.
Day 18 - 5 May
Didn't start on my way till 9 in the morning. I was up with the sun but still deciding what to do about my ankle. Eventually I just moved on to see how it would do. About a mile up the trail I came across a small cement and stone marker commemorating completion of the PCT in 1993. Probably in the worst looking location on the trail. It does commemorate a cool accomplishment though.
I made it to Aqua Dulce and stopped at a local eatery the trail went past. The sandwich I consumed was hiker friendly, it was big and not expensive. Nice to sit and eat at a table. Ended up camping in a scrub filled valley as dark was coming quickly on. The ridge I would climb in the morning looked as if the clouds were resting right on the top of it. Happy that while still sore, I was making good progress. I only took the one picture all day long, have to do better.
Day 19 - 6 May
In the morning clouds were still hanging on the ridge. I headed into the mist and it was good as it kept the temp nice. Soon after crossing over I was back in clear skies. Weird weather they are having.
A small clearing in the underbrush along the trail had a "rest stop". It was maintained by the Anderson's, well known Trail Angels from 7 miles up the trail. This should have warned me about what I would find ahead. I did take a break for 20 mins in the purple chair you see in the photo.
Eventually I made it to the road and walked into the Anderson's place aka "Casa De Luna". I have heard it described as "Hippie Day Care" and that's about what it was. I rested for a short while and took this picture celebrating 500 miles of trail. Not positive where the actual 500 was but this was pretty close. It was creative use of empty beer cans. Not my comfy zone there so I moved on.
One of the problems with all the fires over the last few years is trail closures and reroutes. To rejoin the trail after the closure area required a 21 mile road walk. I started on it but about 5 miles in a local offered me a ride and I accepted. I was dropped off at Hikertown where the trail picked up again. I spent the night there…another adventure in a place along the trail with eccentric people. This is the only map I ever saw of the road walk and it was hand drawn.
Day 20 - 7 May
Hikertown in the rear view. It is a replica of a false fronted western town, and the owner of the property who has built it is Mayor and Sheriff. A nice enough guy but pretty strange in his own way. No stranger than all the folks walking from Mexico to Canada but I was ready to get moving. A storm was supposed to be moving in but I took my chances. The buildings were pretty cool, and there was water so it worked out well.
Followed part of the California Aqueduct for 12 miles with sections of really big Joshua Trees along the side. These plants look prehistoric to me. Maybe that's why I like them.
By midday it was back to more windmills...
The trail was heading for the Tehachapi mountains, and I could watch clouds building and getting darker. Just after 3pm I felt that there was going to be a storm so I picked as sheltered a place as I could find and set up my tent. Within half an hour the rain started, and it was really coming down, then hail came and after a bit the snow started. Overall the tent was great till a gust pulled two of the stakes out. No way to fix them without getting wet. It kept storming till 3am. The map says I am still in the high desert. What is it with all the storms! Drought is becoming a sham in my mind.
Day 21 - 8 May
As I started hiking I kept thinking to myself that the desert is broken. Why is there snow here now. Different than normal but something most don't see or experience. I bet fewer than 30 PCTers experienced the snow for most it was rain somewhere behind me.
The dreary day just kept on, when I passed this rest spot it was so cold I didn't want to stop and sit. Someone has a sense of humor and in normal heat this would be a welcome respite.
Eventually I came to the road that leads to Tehachapi, and convinced myself that it would be a great place for a meal and an overnight break. Best Western here I come again. Got a ride right from the trail crossing and also arranged for a ride back in the AM. I think Al (the trail angel) just liked having the hikers to talk with, and something for him to do. I really appreciated getting the ride.
Day 22 - 9 May
After a feast at the free breakfast buffet (they lost $ on me between the long showers and all the food I ate) it was time to get back on the trail. Blue sky and lots of wind kept me company for the day.
When I passed the second road about 8 miles further there was a sign from the local transit company about how to get a ride into town. I thought that was nice…but for me I just headed on.
The BLM has jurisdiction on this part of the trail and they put up great signs. I don't think it would be possible to get lost in this section. Trail was really sandy for miles and the heat was coming on. Lot of miles between water stops.
At the end of the day I found a sandy spot right next to the trail and made camp. Amazing how comfortable sand can be. I really have not used my tent very much.
Day 23 - 10 May
Nice easy trail tread day long. With the exception of a short burned section it was a great trail day. The sky was as intense a blue as I have ever seen.
Water was nicely spaced and easy to come by...
Lots of shade during the heat of the day...
Some old trail markers being aged with the trees they are attached to look at...
…then the last water of the day and the start of a 42 mile waterless section. I thought about trying to be like a camel and drink all I could this evening and the next morning…or just drinking as much as I could and then put a few miles behind me while it was cool out. I moved on and went about 4 miles further where I found a wonderful ridge top camp location. I also saw a quail that stayed near me for a bit. Not the normal quail species I see. A little bigger and different head gear. Neat bird. I was hungry and thought about how good he would taste. Don't worry, he is still out there someplace.
Day 24 - 11 May
A dry day. Warm but not as hot as the folks coming behind me will experience. Pack is heavy with water but with every drink I take it gets lighter.
The trail was easy to follow with great trail markings...
All the normal springs were dry. Seeing this sign just made me wish I wasn't having to carry 2 gallons of water. But I was glad I did.
I did not see a single person all day long. Not one. A few cows but no people. The cows have to have a water tank somewhere, but I don't need cow water just now. I kept putting miles behind me till it was getting dark. Tomorrow I will come to Walker Pass and fresh water. So far I am using it at about 1 liter for every 5 miles so the water is lasting as planned. Sure am going to drink all I want when I get to to the next water source.
Day 25 - 12 May
Continued on without seeing anyone for most of the day. Cruised through Walker Pass late morning so the driest stretch of the trail is behind me now.
Lots of rocks, mostly up with a few downs to make sure there was plenty of chances for more up. Came around the shoulder of a mountain and saw a town far below. Checked and had a phone signal so called Geri and caught up on goings on. Worried about changes in the weather so she checked the forecast and it didn't seem bad. Then in the middle nowhere, passing over a mountain I came across this sign. Funny what you find in the wilderness sometimes.
As evening fell I came upon the only person I had seen more than once on the trail. Rooster had caught up with me while I was off trail getting water at a spring. We talked for a bit then I moved on another 3 miles to camp on the other side f a ridge out of the wind. Along the way I came across this marker that indicated I had completed 1/4 of the trail already. I know this has been here more than a year because I have seen pictures of it in last years trail journals. Still cool to pass it.
Day 26 - 13 May
Planned a 28 to 30 mile day with an early camp. Hiked all day and wound up at the Kennedy Meadows General Store, for 37 miles. Then big storm #3 hit and winter returned to the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range. Along the way I went from a wonderful pine forest to the remnants of a fire that left a bare landscape.
The second pair of socks came to the end of their usefulness. They lasted longer than I expected with all the fine sand across the desert. Yes, I did put my shoes back on and hike the rest of the day in these.
Along the way I saw more Horny Toads in a five mile stretch than I had ever seen in my life. They sure seem like little dinosaurs. Finally got a decent photo of one who stood his ground.
As sunset approached I passed the 700 mile mark. Sure came fast after 600. My pace was really starting to pick up.
Kennedy Meadows is a small off the grid community a long ways from anywhere. Loved the handwritten sign, although with hikers passing through I am not sure if they were referring to the gas pumps or the impact of camp food on so many hikers.
This is where my 26 day oddest ended. After one of the driest winters on record, the snow all came at once. While I have winter gear it was in Montana and I was cruising along with spring summer gear and 250 miles through 40 inches of snow just didn't seem smart. I was able to catch a ride to a town 2 hours away where planes. trains and automobiles got me back home. That was a worthy adventure all in itself!
