Lappi Lake Early Season Attempt

Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, Bitterroot National Forest, Montana

Western Montana has been experiencing record warmth the last few days, and I just had to see if I could get to Lapi Lake and stay dry doing it. First I passed the old dam and the small lake still behind it. This was the first irrigation dam in Montana back in the 1800's. It was made out of wood so not much has survived but logs that tumble into the spring runoff get caught up here and help keep it in kind of working order. It makes a great place for a snack stop and many people hike just this far back into the valley.

My plan was to cross the creek on an ice or snow bridge at about 5 miles from the mouth of the valley then climb up the south wall to the little lake. Turns out I could not find a safe way across the creek. All the extra water flowing from the warm weather has ruined my planned crossing places. This was the best bridge I could find and it made cracking noises as I got barely on the edge. As cold as the water was I didn't want to go for a cold swim so I looked for adventure on my side of the creek.

The ice wall from 2 weeks ago was collapsed and it was back to being a waterfall. I have never seen it with flowing water in the middle of winter. As soon as things get back to normal in the next week it will start to become a wonderful ice sculpture again. That was over 100 feet of ice and it was so thick it had to be measured in feet. What a change the southern exposure and warm weather makes on the rocks and ice.

On the hike out I found some clumps of grass that were mostly covered by the snow, but still showed enough to make an interesting photo. If there had been any wind at all it would have ruined the reflection of all the trees on the slope higher up. I didn't get where I wanted to but still spent a wonderful day in the backcountry and didn't see anyone else till I was almost back to the truck. I enjoy making fresh tracks in the snow, and the snow does make it easier to go across slopes that otherwise would be chocked with brush.

Sheep Mountain Trail

Rattlesnake National Recreation Area, Lolo National Forest, Montana

Really warm day for January in Montana, it was above freezing anyhow, so Geri and I set out to see how the trails were in the Rattlesnake Mountains north of Missoula. We found things pretty icy as we headed up the Sheep Mountain trail from Woods Gulch.

Once we got higher than 5,800 feet there was enough snowpack to make traveling easier; well at least not as slick. Didn't need the snowshoes as it has been cold enough lately to create a hard crust on the snow. Even though it was in the 30's it held up and I never sunk in deeper than mid calf. Thin clouds overhead kept me from getting a great blue ski for taking pictures. Still had lots of fun and as always any day spent in the mountains is a good one.

Bass Creek Valley

Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, Montana

First day of the new year and back to see how the recent cold snap has impacted one of my favorite backcountry trails. Also thought I would try to get up to one of the unnamed high points on the north ridge of the valley. What I found was lots and lots of ice on Bass Creek. Some open flowing water was left but not as much open spaces as I had expected. The valley floor along the creek never got any sunlight today, and I would be surprised if the temp ever got above 10. It was below 0 at the trailhead when I started out.

The first 3 miles I was able to walk without having to use my snowshoes, just traction devices on my boots, but then the snow got deep in a hurry. I worked my way up the side of the ridge to see if I could get to some windblown areas. That just didn't work today. About 3 feet of snow has fallen higher up in the Bitterroots in the past 10 days I was was making my own trail through it all. After a lot of work I found an area that had little snow and some sun but it was on a really steep slope. To make it worse only 100 yards beyond these trees I was back into deep snow. I ended up taking a break and eating lunch leaning on the crooked tree in this picture.

With lots of effort I made it almost to the top of this high point, but the snow was pretty deep, the angle was beyond 35 degrees and I was feeling uncomfortable with the potential of starting a small avalanche that would have me in it. So I will save this for another day. It still made for a great day in the woods. I saw 1 other person and that was within 1/2 mile of the trailhead on my way out.

Winter days with no clouds are rare enough that even though they tend to be very cold, I just hate to waste them by being indoors. Can't wait for the next one.

Bear Creek

Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, Montana

Wondering about the feasibility of a winter summit attempt on Sky Pilot Peak and a few other nearby high points, I set out today for a recon of the trail that would get me back to the mountain. Warm weather of the past few days combined with below freezing overnights made for lots of ice on trail in the lower reaches of the canyon.

One of the little mountain streams that normally flows into Bear Creek was completely frozen over all the way down the mountain. This is about 1 1/2 miles from the trailhead.

Knowing I would need to cross to the other side of Bear Creek I kept looking for an ice bridge. Never found one that I was comfortable enough to cross. Some more snow and a cold spell should fix that problem though. Probably will have to pack in a pair of fishing waders to make sure I can get a good safe creek crossing.

Some of the trees in one section of the valley are just covered in moss, while pretty neat to see in summer; it is a real splash of green with the stark winter landscape. It made a great place to eat a snack.

The normal crossing point about 3 miles up the valley was not something to try today. While the picture doesn't show the ice very well, the log was covered. So having only gone a bit over 3 miles from the trailhead I decided to turn and head up the south side of the valley to get a peak at the mountains further back in the valley.

And after a bit of scrambling this was the view I got. I'm sure now that I can get to the peaks I want to and they should be climbable this winter. I have been up them in summer conditions so I am familiar with the routes. Snow and ice should actually make the summits easier but camp will be colder and the pace will be slower.

Northern Bitterroot Scramble

Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, Montana

Took a trip to check trail conditions and snowpack in the northern Bitterroot mountains. What I found was lots and lots of ice! I saw more icicles today than I saw all last year. I think the few days of warm we had last week allowed melting and then this last cold snap just froze it solid. In some places the ice was over 6 inches thick.

The creeks are all weird ice sculptures along the banks, with more ice bridges than I expected. Crossed the creek on ice in 3 places today. Most of the creek ice was over a foot thick, some of it was closer to 2 feet thick. Took lots of pictures of the strange ice flows as well, just can't post all of them here.

As I got higher in altitude the snow pack got thicker. Up above treelike the mountains are already in full winter coats. With so much ice to cross today I didn't want to get out onto any real steep exposed areas yet. Once things get a bit more stable I have already decided where my first winter summit will be.

Spring Gulch

Rattlesnake Recreation Area, Montana

No clouds, little wind and day 10 of morning temps in the single digits…a great day for a mountain adventure! Started at the main trailhead for the Rattlesnake and after about a 1/2 mile turned west into Spring Gulch. All the cold weather has turned waterways into sheets of ice. I did find a few open spots in the ice on Spring Creek, but the ice was 2 to 3 inches thick already and it may not melt again till spring. Winter has arrived, at least Jack Frost has.

When hiking in the shade it was pretty cold, but was much better when the gulch widened out and got some sun. The little snow we had last week is sticking around and morphing into some strange ice crystal creations on the brush.

On the back side of the loop I got into a snow free area and really could enjoy the blue sky and warming temps. It was 11 degrees when I was finished my hike and made it back to the truck, almost a heatwave.

Stormy Joe - Point 9003 Summit

Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, Montana

Warm temps for the middle of October, so off in search of mountains to climb. Earlier in the year I had to turn back on Stormy Joe because the snowpack was too deep and springtime avalanche danger was significant. This felt like the day to revisit this climb. Early on the sun was out and the trees with changing leaves on them still were radiant.

About 9 miles from the trailhead I climbed the saddle and then headed up the final 2,000 feet to the summit. Snow from the last little storm was still on part of the slope and made me watch my footing. I found a ridge line that was mostly snow free and made good time on the accent. Halfway up the climb I took a break and while looking down at Bass lake decided to spend the night on the south shoreline in the edge of the trees.

Then I went back to getting to the top of this climb. At the summit my GPS showed 9,001 feet which was close to what the maps show as the summit elevation. Felt as if I was just below the clouds with the Bitterroot range stretched out before me. Can sure tell winter is on its way. Made it down to the lake just in time to set camp and have dinner as it was getting dark. The clouds cleared early during the night and this morning things had froze over a bit.

Woke this morning to clear skies, and a wonderful sunrise on the climb from yesterday. While the summit photos would be spectacular today, I decided to not climb back up. I just took my time heading back down the valley.

All year I have been seeing mushrooms with bites taken out of them. This was the first time I was what was eating them. Was able to sit and watch this squirrel devour the whole mushroom prior to running off in search of more food. Sometimes it is more fun to watch the little critters than it is to see the big ones.