Ice, Mud and Snowmelt in the Bitterroot Wilderness

Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, Bitterroot National Forest, Montana

February in Montana and I felt like I was on a spring outing. I headed into the wilderness from the Kootenai Creek trailhead, and as normal it was icy. Enough ice that I broke out the crampons to move safely for the first 2+ miles of the canyon. By far the best way to move over thick ice that I am aware of. For me the most secure way anyhow.

Creek was flowing pretty fast, but after all the rain of the past weekend that was expected. I did not think all the ice bridges would be melted out already. This was my favorite one to cross the creek this year, now there were no safe places to cross for over 6 miles up canyon. There was one log but it was so sketchy that I was not going to try it.

Where the canyon gets wider and the sun gets to the floor, the snow and ice was gone. The trail was visible and the walking was so smooth. This lasted up to about 5 miles up canyon. Along the creek there was still ice but not in the trees. Would have been a perfect area to camp in.

Snow melting from up on the mountains made for lots of little streams to cross. I filled my water bottle at this one…really cold water, but good to drink.

Eventually winter returned to the valley and all along the Idaho/Montana border there is plenty of snow.   The storms have also laid trees over all along the portion of the valley that had burned a few years back. I counted 93 trees that i had to go over, under or around in less than a mile. Figure that will limit the number of people who get to the far reaches of this valley later this year. After I had passed the last of human tracks in the snow I did find one set of wolf tracks and some moose and elk tracks as well. I should have started earlier in the morning so I could have made it back to the mountain.

Returning to the trailhead and my truck the clouds opened up and showed some blue. Photo just doesn't capture the beauty of the views I got to see. My regret today is that I took my snowshoes on a walk, but they stayed on my back the whole day. I could have used them when I was crossing all the downed trees but it was easier to do that part of the trip without putting them on.

Blodgett Falls and Printz Ridge

Bitterroot National Forest, Montana

This trip was really done on 31 Jan 2015, just didn't get it posted till 1 Feb.

A pretty blue sky with very few clouds this morning so off to the mountains I went. My plan was to get to the 3 waterfalls in the first 5 miles of Blodgett Canyon then head up the north side and onto Printz ridge. The first waterfall was frozen over but a log across the creek was the only open water I could see of the falls. No way to cross that log with all the ice. It was the only place that got some sunshine as well.

The view west up the canyon towards the Idaho line called me to just keep going. When the view is that great it is easy to spend the day in the mountains. I had views like this all day long!

I passed by 3 of the better known spires of Printz Ridge following the trail in the bottom of the valley. From left to right they are the Flathead Buttress, Shoshone Spire, and the Nez Perce Buttress. With the blue sky behind them they make a great way for me to trip on the trail because I was looking up instead of where my feet were going. I was planning on getting to the ridge on the far left of this picture.

I made it up to the next two falls and with the recent warm weather and sunshine on the higher parts of the peaks a lot of water was flowing. More than I would expect for the last day of January. I was sure careful along the edge of the water because of all the ice. Last thing I wanted was to fall into the water.

After the last falls I went up the ridge and worked back towards the head of the canyon. Eventually I was able to get a good view of Horsehead Arch by looking across the valley. With a different view of the arch I think I found a good way to climb up to. That will be an adventure for this summer.

Eventually I got up on the ridge by going around this outcropping. It was nice to get off the snow and ice of the canyon floor but I did find the snow on the right of the rock to be easier going. Mostly because it was a lower grade slope. I did see some of the protection left on climbing routes used by the rock climbers. This is about the best canyon for technical climbing close by. Surprised that none was out playing on the rocks with the good weather.

Eventually I worked my way back towards the bottom of the canyon where the views kept me mesmerized. The sky was such a deep blue at times. Really depended on where I was looking in relation to the sun. I bet I took at least 50 pictures with the sky being as much a feature as the crags.

As I was heading back towards the trailhead and my truck I came around an outcropping of rock and got a view of the moon. Not a view I was expecting, but a nice way to end the day.

Lappi Lake Early Season Attempt

Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, Bitterroot National Forest, Montana

Western Montana has been experiencing record warmth the last few days, and I just had to see if I could get to Lapi Lake and stay dry doing it. First I passed the old dam and the small lake still behind it. This was the first irrigation dam in Montana back in the 1800's. It was made out of wood so not much has survived but logs that tumble into the spring runoff get caught up here and help keep it in kind of working order. It makes a great place for a snack stop and many people hike just this far back into the valley.

My plan was to cross the creek on an ice or snow bridge at about 5 miles from the mouth of the valley then climb up the south wall to the little lake. Turns out I could not find a safe way across the creek. All the extra water flowing from the warm weather has ruined my planned crossing places. This was the best bridge I could find and it made cracking noises as I got barely on the edge. As cold as the water was I didn't want to go for a cold swim so I looked for adventure on my side of the creek.

The ice wall from 2 weeks ago was collapsed and it was back to being a waterfall. I have never seen it with flowing water in the middle of winter. As soon as things get back to normal in the next week it will start to become a wonderful ice sculpture again. That was over 100 feet of ice and it was so thick it had to be measured in feet. What a change the southern exposure and warm weather makes on the rocks and ice.

On the hike out I found some clumps of grass that were mostly covered by the snow, but still showed enough to make an interesting photo. If there had been any wind at all it would have ruined the reflection of all the trees on the slope higher up. I didn't get where I wanted to but still spent a wonderful day in the backcountry and didn't see anyone else till I was almost back to the truck. I enjoy making fresh tracks in the snow, and the snow does make it easier to go across slopes that otherwise would be chocked with brush.

Sheep Mountain Trail

Rattlesnake National Recreation Area, Lolo National Forest, Montana

Really warm day for January in Montana, it was above freezing anyhow, so Geri and I set out to see how the trails were in the Rattlesnake Mountains north of Missoula. We found things pretty icy as we headed up the Sheep Mountain trail from Woods Gulch.

Once we got higher than 5,800 feet there was enough snowpack to make traveling easier; well at least not as slick. Didn't need the snowshoes as it has been cold enough lately to create a hard crust on the snow. Even though it was in the 30's it held up and I never sunk in deeper than mid calf. Thin clouds overhead kept me from getting a great blue ski for taking pictures. Still had lots of fun and as always any day spent in the mountains is a good one.

Bass Creek Valley

Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, Montana

First day of the new year and back to see how the recent cold snap has impacted one of my favorite backcountry trails. Also thought I would try to get up to one of the unnamed high points on the north ridge of the valley. What I found was lots and lots of ice on Bass Creek. Some open flowing water was left but not as much open spaces as I had expected. The valley floor along the creek never got any sunlight today, and I would be surprised if the temp ever got above 10. It was below 0 at the trailhead when I started out.

The first 3 miles I was able to walk without having to use my snowshoes, just traction devices on my boots, but then the snow got deep in a hurry. I worked my way up the side of the ridge to see if I could get to some windblown areas. That just didn't work today. About 3 feet of snow has fallen higher up in the Bitterroots in the past 10 days I was was making my own trail through it all. After a lot of work I found an area that had little snow and some sun but it was on a really steep slope. To make it worse only 100 yards beyond these trees I was back into deep snow. I ended up taking a break and eating lunch leaning on the crooked tree in this picture.

With lots of effort I made it almost to the top of this high point, but the snow was pretty deep, the angle was beyond 35 degrees and I was feeling uncomfortable with the potential of starting a small avalanche that would have me in it. So I will save this for another day. It still made for a great day in the woods. I saw 1 other person and that was within 1/2 mile of the trailhead on my way out.

Winter days with no clouds are rare enough that even though they tend to be very cold, I just hate to waste them by being indoors. Can't wait for the next one.

Bear Creek

Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, Montana

Wondering about the feasibility of a winter summit attempt on Sky Pilot Peak and a few other nearby high points, I set out today for a recon of the trail that would get me back to the mountain. Warm weather of the past few days combined with below freezing overnights made for lots of ice on trail in the lower reaches of the canyon.

One of the little mountain streams that normally flows into Bear Creek was completely frozen over all the way down the mountain. This is about 1 1/2 miles from the trailhead.

Knowing I would need to cross to the other side of Bear Creek I kept looking for an ice bridge. Never found one that I was comfortable enough to cross. Some more snow and a cold spell should fix that problem though. Probably will have to pack in a pair of fishing waders to make sure I can get a good safe creek crossing.

Some of the trees in one section of the valley are just covered in moss, while pretty neat to see in summer; it is a real splash of green with the stark winter landscape. It made a great place to eat a snack.

The normal crossing point about 3 miles up the valley was not something to try today. While the picture doesn't show the ice very well, the log was covered. So having only gone a bit over 3 miles from the trailhead I decided to turn and head up the south side of the valley to get a peak at the mountains further back in the valley.

And after a bit of scrambling this was the view I got. I'm sure now that I can get to the peaks I want to and they should be climbable this winter. I have been up them in summer conditions so I am familiar with the routes. Snow and ice should actually make the summits easier but camp will be colder and the pace will be slower.

Northern Bitterroot Scramble

Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, Montana

Took a trip to check trail conditions and snowpack in the northern Bitterroot mountains. What I found was lots and lots of ice! I saw more icicles today than I saw all last year. I think the few days of warm we had last week allowed melting and then this last cold snap just froze it solid. In some places the ice was over 6 inches thick.

The creeks are all weird ice sculptures along the banks, with more ice bridges than I expected. Crossed the creek on ice in 3 places today. Most of the creek ice was over a foot thick, some of it was closer to 2 feet thick. Took lots of pictures of the strange ice flows as well, just can't post all of them here.

As I got higher in altitude the snow pack got thicker. Up above treelike the mountains are already in full winter coats. With so much ice to cross today I didn't want to get out onto any real steep exposed areas yet. Once things get a bit more stable I have already decided where my first winter summit will be.